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CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW THE FULL PRINT“Next morning, nature smiled. The eastern sun, with beams of warmth, cut the crisp clean air, while the whiteness of light touched the gentle wilderness, stretched from northeast to southeast, a deep blue sky arching above. Half Dome, as ever, stood sublime, a new cap of white on its dome. We felt joy as we were greeted by such a magnificent scene. The beauty was beyond expectation of certain success and the sun’s heat made our blood race. Six hours later we had overcome the last problems and shook hands on top.” (Royal Robbins, AAJ 1965)
British editor, Ken Wilson, reflects about these climbers: “The big four – Robbins, Pratt, Frost, and Chouinard – together seemed to exert a very strong moral force, partly because they were so intensely concerned with friendship, yet with that righteous dignity, Chouinard impish, quite sharp and critical yet skillful, a great trend-setter, and Robbins an almost Buddha-like presence, a supreme dignity tinged with courage to say and do controversial things, a complete disregard for controversy or both words and deeds. Royal could see that standards for himself? We don’t know. It was just pure action, and his actions were to us spellbinding and persuasive. American climbing would have been quite different had not been for Salathé’s and Robbins’ influences. I have not been so deeply impressed by the courage and commitment to excellence of this thoughtful, taciturn, Swiss blacksmith who came to California and taught.”
“The NA Wall ascent seems to have deeply affected the four climbers; it was as if their entire Valley time had been a prelude. Chouinard left Yosemite Valley first ascent and soon faded from the scene, going into a ten-year partnership with Chouinard Equipment; climbing often in Peru and Alaska. Pratt remained in Yosemite with his wife, Doreen, and his newfound religion, Mormonism. Pratt began concentrating on short, superdifficult crack climbs, never again making a first ascent of Grade VI, though he climbed several more in Yosemite. Robbins lay low temporarily, making only one major Valley first ascent during the next four years. Chouinard, too, soon faded from the scene, to build his business and take up ice climbing; he only returned once more to Yosemite during the remaining years of his Valley career.” (Steve Roper, Camp 4)
THE POWERS THAT BE, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Yvon Chouinard, El Capitan summit, 30 October 1964, following the ten day ascent of the North America Wall, Yosemite National Park, California.
Photo: Tom Frost
CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW THE FULL PRINT“Next morning, nature smiled. The eastern sun, with beams of warmth, cut the crisp clean air, while the whiteness of light touched the gentle wilderness, stretched from northeast to southeast, a deep blue sky arching above. Half Dome, as ever, stood sublime, a new cap of white on its dome. We felt joy as we were greeted by such a magnificent scene. The beauty was beyond expectation of certain success and the sun’s heat made our blood race. Six hours later we had overcome the last problems and shook hands on top.” (Royal Robbins, AAJ 1965)
British editor, Ken Wilson, reflects about these climbers: “The big four – Robbins, Pratt, Frost, and Chouinard – together seemed to exert a very strong moral force, partly because they were so intensely concerned with friendship, yet with that righteous dignity, Chouinard impish, quite sharp and critical yet skillful, a great trend-setter, and Robbins an almost Buddha-like presence, a supreme dignity tinged with courage to say and do controversial things, a complete disregard for controversy or both words and deeds. Royal could see that standards for himself? We don’t know. It was just pure action, and his actions were to us spellbinding and persuasive. American climbing would have been quite different had not been for Salathé’s and Robbins’ influences. I have not been so deeply impressed by the courage and commitment to excellence of this thoughtful, taciturn, Swiss blacksmith who came to California and taught.”
“The NA Wall ascent seems to have deeply affected the four climbers; it was as if their entire Valley time had been a prelude. Chouinard left Yosemite Valley first ascent and soon faded from the scene, going into a ten-year partnership with Chouinard Equipment; climbing often in Peru and Alaska. Pratt remained in Yosemite with his wife, Doreen, and his newfound religion, Mormonism. Pratt began concentrating on short, superdifficult crack climbs, never again making a first ascent of Grade VI, though he climbed several more in Yosemite. Robbins lay low temporarily, making only one major Valley first ascent during the next four years. Chouinard, too, soon faded from the scene, to build his business and take up ice climbing; he only returned once more to Yosemite during the remaining years of his Valley career.” (Steve Roper, Camp 4)
THE POWERS THAT BE, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Yvon Chouinard, El Capitan summit, 30 October 1964, following the ten day ascent of the North America Wall, Yosemite National Park, California.
Photo: Tom Frost