Welcome to the North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA).

Prior to the introduction of compact cameras with roll film in the late 1800s, most graphic depictions of the climbing experience were paintings and illustrations such as this one done by English climber Edward Whymper to accompany his account of the first ascent of the Verte via what became known as the Whymper Couloir in the company of Swiss guides Christian Almer and Franz Biner in 1865.

As well as being one of the finest climbers of his era, Edward Whymper was also an accomplished artist and engraver. After several attempts, he succeeded in reaching the much sought-after summit of the Matterhorn in the company of Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Doulas Hadow, Michael Croz and two Zermatt guides named Peter Taugwalder, father and son. While all closely roped together during the descent, Hadow slipped causing his immediate ropemates to fall soon severing the rope over an edge leaving only Whymper and the Taugwalders alive. Emotionally raw from the accident they witnessed a spectre of the brocken or fog-bow as described in Whymper’s lavishly illustrated Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-1869, published in 1871.

Fred Beckey takes in the view while climbing in Alaska, one of his favorite haunts. A legend during his lifetime, Fred climbed more virgin and remote summits than any climber who ever lived. John Rupley photo.

Yvon Chouinard adorned with a selection of Hexentrics and Stoppers both recently designed and produced in collaboration with Tom Frost and Doug Robinson at Chouinard Equipment. In 1972, all three men would contribute to a company catalog/manifesto extolling the virtues of hammerless “clean climbing” that forever changed the course of climbing history worldwide in the face of increasing climber numbers and impacts. Tom Frost photo.

Morning light bathes the east faces of Crook’s Peak, Day Needle, Keeler Needle and Mt. Whitney (left to right) some of the most dramatic formations on the eastern escarpment of California’s Sierra Nevada. Ed Cooper photo.

Sheridan Mulholland Anderson (1936 -1984) was a talented artist and illustrator best known for his work in connection with fly fishing such as the Curtis Creek Manifesto. He was also a climber and had the remarkable ability to inject humor into an activity often defined by hardship and loss. His work remains delightfully relevant to this day.

Bright sunlight illuminates the east face of Longs Peak (14.256’) in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. Rising above Broadway Ledge, the Diamond is a vertical sweep of solid rock first climbed by Bob Kamps and David Rearick in 1960 once a ban was lifted due to the difficulty of the National Park Service effecting a technical rescue should one have been necessary. The route became known as “D1” and is one of Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Ed Cooper photo.

Located on Native American tribal land, Spider Rock is the tallest of the three best classic sandstone towers joining the Totem Pole and Cleopatra’s Needle. First climbed by Mark Powell, Jerry Gallwas and Don Wilson in 1956, this formation has been subject to restricted access which is an ongoing situation as climbing culture among Native American tribes evolves. Ed Cooper photo.