We Would Like To Take A Chance

Prior to the introduction of compact cameras with roll film in the late 1800s, most graphic depictions of the climbing experience were paintings and illustrations such as this one done by English climber Edward Whymper to accompany his account of the first ascent of the Verte via what became known as the Whymper Couloir in the company of Swiss guides Christian Almer and Franz Biner in 1865.

As well as being one of the finest climbers of his era, Edward Whymper was also an accomplished artist and engraver. After several attempts, he succeeded in reaching the much sought-after summit of the Matterhorn in the company of Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Doulas Hadow, Michael Croz and two Zermatt guides named Peter Taugwalder, father and son. While all closely roped together during the descent, Hadow slipped causing his immediate ropemates to fall soon severing the rope over an edge leaving only Whymper and the Taugwalders alive. Emotionally raw from the accident they witnessed a spectre of the brocken or fog-bow as described in Whymper’s lavishly illustrated Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-1869, published in 1871.

Fred Beckey takes in the view while climbing in Alaska, one of his favorite haunts. A legend during his lifetime, Fred climbed more virgin and remote summits than any climber who ever lived. John Rupley photo.

Yvon Chouinard adorned with a selection of Hexentrics and Stoppers both recently designed and produced in collaboration with Tom Frost and Doug Robinson at Chouinard Equipment. In 1972, all three men would contribute to a company catalog/manifesto extolling the virtues of hammerless “clean climbing” that forever changed the course of climbing history worldwide in the face of increasing climber numbers and impacts. Tom Frost photo.

Morning light bathes the east faces of Crook’s Peak, Day Needle, Keeler Needle and Mt. Whitney (left to right) some of the most dramatic formations on the eastern escarpment of California’s Sierra Nevada. Ed Cooper photo.

Sheridan Mulholland Anderson (1936 -1984) was a talented artist and illustrator best known for his work in connection with fly fishing such as the Curtis Creek Manifesto. He was also a climber and had the remarkable ability to inject humor into an activity often defined by hardship and loss. His work remains delightfully relevant to this day.

Bright sunlight illuminates the east face of Longs Peak (14.256’) in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. Rising above Broadway Ledge, the Diamond is a vertical sweep of solid rock first climbed by Bob Kamps and David Rearick in 1960 once a ban was lifted due to the difficulty of the National Park Service effecting a technical rescue should one have been necessary. The route became known as “D1” and is one of Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Ed Cooper photo.

Located on Native American tribal land, Spider Rock is the tallest of the three best classic sandstone towers joining the Totem Pole and Cleopatra’s Needle. First climbed by Mark Powell, Jerry Gallwas and Don Wilson in 1956, this formation has been subject to restricted access which is an ongoing situation as climbing culture among Native American tribes evolves. Ed Cooper photo.

A climbing party regains the rim via a Tyrolean traverse a seldom used technique apart from this particular summit which is often approached by doing two rappels into the notch to climb only the free standing portion of the formation. After having been attained using a variety of “rope tricks”, the Lost Arrow was first climbed conventionally from the Valley floor by John Salathé and Anton “Ax” Nelson in an extraordinary effort over five sweltering days and nights in September of 1947. Ed Cooper photo.

John Salathé and Anton “Ax” Nelson after their successful ascent of the Lost Arrow via the previously Arrow Chimney. Enduring intense thirst on rations of 1 ½ quarts of water per man per day the team was the first to spend more than one night out on a Valley rock climb. Equipped with alloy steel pitons, expansion bolts and adjustable stirrups for artificial climbing, they employed numerous innovative techniques to emerge victorious. Dick Houston photo courtesy of the Yosemite Climbing Association.

After many days of steep, ledgeless climbing and slingwork, a gaunt Glen Denny peers back at the camera on Thanksgiving Ledge near the top of the Dihedral Wall while Jim Baldwin fiddles with the equipment and haulbags. This was the third major route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Ed Cooper photo.

Yvon Chouinard balances carefully on front points during an ascent of the Mendel Couloir in the Sierra Nevada of California. In his left hand is an ice piton being used as a dagger for balance while repositioning his single ice axe. The precarious nature of this tool combination inspired Yvon to develop the Chouinard Alpine Hammer after he was nearly knocked out of balance several times by spindrift avalanches. Dennis Hennek photo.

The Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau depicted anthropomorphically in a postcard from this area of the Swiss Alps. The Jungfrau is shown disdainfully combing suitors from her hair.

Royal Robbins pauses while descending from the summit of Half Dome after completing the first ascent of Tis-sa-ack with Don Peterson. Glen Denny photo.

One of the three classic desert towers, the Totem Pole was first climbed in 1957 by Mark Powell, Don Wilson, Jerry Gallwas and Bill “Dolt” Feuerer. Utilizing alloy steel pitons made by Jerry as well as bolts specially designed for the soft sandstone they made the airy summit after several days climbing, the most difficult desert route in their collective experience. Ed Cooper photo.

Sentinel Rock was the scene for John Salathé’s last great climb. In July of 1950, he teamed up with Allen Steck to tackle the great wall. Climbing the right side of the sunlit Flying Buttress (visible above the snow-covered Tree Ledge) the team were able to gain entrance to the Great Chimney and persevere to the summit. In Ordeal by Piton, Steck’s account of the climb, he wrote that “the ascent of this wall was probably the toughest one that either of us had ever made, or ever hoped to make again.” Ed Cooper photo.